The true origins of kente cloth: Beyond the spider story of Bonwire

Kente cloth, one of Africa's most recognizable textiles, is deeply rooted in the cultural heritage of Ghana and, by extension, West Africa. It is highly regarded globally and is an outstanding element of Ghanaian culture and fashion that has captivated the world.

The narrative surrounding its creation, particularly the story of two farmers who learned the art of weaving from observing a spider's web, is often repeated. This story has persisted for decades without being scrutinized, even though it always seems more mythical than factual.

You may have heard the popular story that two Asante farmers from the town of Bonwire, while hunting, observed a spider weaving its web. They were so fascinated by the elaborate patterns and the weaving technique that they decided to replicate it, thus inventing Kente cloth.

Over the years, I have had some doubts about this story, and they are based on the following grounds:

Firstly, the pattern and structure of a spider's web are fundamentally different from Kente weaving. A spider's web is a radial and spiral structure, with threads extending outward from a central point, interconnected by circular threads. In contrast, Kente weaving involves the horizontal and vertical interlacing of threads, producing a variety of geometric patterns and symbols.

The precision and complexity of Kente design, which features straight lines, checks, and intricate motifs, cannot be derived from the organic and radial form of a spider’s web.

Secondly, were these two farmers seeing spiderwebs for the first time ever in their lives? Was that their first time seeing a spider? I say no! Spiders have always lived in our homes here in Ghana, and the township of Bonwire is no exception. If it was the first time the farmers were seeing a cobweb or a spider, the story would have captured the fact that the farmers had encountered a fascinating animal before even mentioning the cobwebs.

From this, you could objectively deduce that cobwebs and spiders were never new experiences for the people of Bonwire in pre-colonial times.

Thirdly, Kente is woven with looms. Looms have existed and were used to weave cloths in ancient Egypt since 4000 BCE (Before the Common Era). It is not an invention of the people of Bonwire or the Asantes. The Ewe people, who live in modern Ghana, Togo, and parts of Benin, have been using looms to weave cloths for thousands of years. Even the Yoruba people of Nigeria have also been using looms for a long time. They didn't learn it from the Asantes.

This means that the loom was never originally invented in Bonwire by these two farmers who are said to have been the first to weave Kente.

Without bias, the true origins of Kente cloth trace back to the Ewe people, specifically from the town of Notsie, located in modern-day Togo. Among the Ewes, the cloth was originally known as "K3t3." The Ewes have a long-standing tradition of weaving, with techniques and patterns passed down through generations.

Historical evidence suggests that the Ewes of Notsie were highly skilled weavers long before the Asantes began producing Kente. The name "Kente" itself is derived from the Ewe word "k3t3," signifying the deep-rooted connection to the Ewe heritage.

The Asante introduction to Kente cloth may have begun with their interactions with the Anlo Ewes. This was when the Asantes were trying to avoid clashes with the Akyems and badly needed a trading route to the sea. So they made an agreement with the Anlo to use their seashore among other things. All that while, the Anlo, like other Ewe tribes, had long been using this cloth that was later renamed Kente.

From 1868 to 1872, the Akwamu went to war with all Ewe people except the Anlo. The Asantes came to the support of the Akwamus because they were their allies.

Although the Ewes won the war, it was an avenue for the Asantes to experience and assimilate fragments of Ewe culture, including the K3T3 cloth/Agbamevor. So during periods of trade and conflict, the Asantes were exposed to this cloth.

It is believable that the Asantes adopted the weaving techniques they observed. They incorporated their own cultural symbols and motifs, thus creating the distinctive Asante Kente. While the Asante have undeniably popularized Kente on a global scale, the foundational techniques and styles can be traced back to the Ewe weavers of Notsie.

The narrative of Kente cloth’s origins involving two farmers learning from a spider's web is a romanticized myth that oversimplifies and diminishes the rich history of this textile. The intricate patterns and sophisticated weaving techniques of Kente are far more aligned with human ingenuity and cultural tradition than with the natural design of a spider’s web. The true story of Kente lies with the Ewe people, whose weaving legacy significantly predates its adoption by the Asantes.

In conclusion, Kente is such a beautiful cloth and should be projected even more. Efforts should be made to protect Kente cloth legally to preserve its commercial value, cultural heritage, and craftsmanship. It is achievable.

May God bless Mother Ghana.